So in New Orleans, we stayed with Niles’s friend Michael in the Marigny. He’s right around the corner from this place called Buffa’s, which is open 24 hours, and has a kitchen which is also open 24 hours. It’s a great little neighborhood treasure, and the food isn’t half bad. I got an enormous plate of tasty red beans and rice, with a few pieces of toast and some smoked sausages, just spicy enough to have a decent kick. Buffa’s actually reminded me of my own beloved Small Bar, a happy neighborhood watering hole in its own right. If the Small Bar was open 24 hours, though, I might never go home.

Red beans and rice, a cold beer and a happy neighborhood bar, it was a perfect welcome to New Orleans.